- Draw a pattern of the size of the chignon required using cling film, sellotape and a marker pen.
- Place the pattern onto a malleable block
- Taking string or wool follow the pattern starting from the middle, working outwards. Pin as you go
- The length of the string that you use will give you the overall length of weft you require.
- The length of the outer circle needs to be marked/measured on the string too to give you 2 measurements - 1) the length of the outside circle and 2) the overall length of weaving.
Setting up the weaving frame
- You will need to add 30-40cms extra to each length of silk and wire
- Set up the weaving frame with a measured length of silk in the top notch and in the bottom notch of the weaving pole. The silks are made from 3 ply strong thread that has been coated in bees wax
- Draw both silks across towards the left side to meet the weaving pole that has the nail on it and tie the silks together by making two knots 2-3cms apart.
- Hook the silks over the nail between the knots and tighten the frame
- Remember you will need to add 30-40cms extra to the overall length of wire
- Wrap the measured length of weaving wire around the middle notch of the weaving pole in the same direction as the weaving silks above and below
- Draw the weaving wire across the frame and wrap the end around the nail to secure.
- Place hair into hair mats
- Commence with starting knot
- Using flat weft weave the length of the outside circle using the 'flat weft' method.
- Weave the rest of the length using the 'wig weft' method
- Finish with a finish knot
Removing the weft from the weaving frame:
- Cut the two silks leaving about 8cms excess on each silk and knot the two silk threads tightly together against the end of the weft
- Using pliers cut the wire leaving the excess of 1-2 cms
- Fold the excess wire back on itself flat against the weft (fold inwards so the wire weft will hold)
- Cover the shine/appearance of the bare wire ends by over sewing to match the colour of the weft
Sewing Up
- Start from the inner circle using your template as a reference and make the circle with the wig weft end and work outwards
- Sew each meeting point or 'stitch point' as you construct the shape
- The outer circle should be the flat weft as this appears as a neat weft edge
- Sew a hair comb to the inside of the chignon to secure the hairpiece to the head.
