Adam's Apple

An Adams Apple is a anatomical feature which is more predominant in males. Because it develops during puberty, biologists classify it as a secondary sexual characteristic. The size of an Adam's Apple can vary a lot, with some being very prominent, others a lot less pronounced, they can even be pronounced and noticeable in some women.  The primary purpose of the structure is to protect the voicebox from injury as the voicebox is very delicate.

30

The scientific name for an Adam's apple is a prominentia laryngea and it is composed of cartilage that surrounds the larynx. As the larynx grows during puberty, the cartilage enlarges to accommodate it, creating a bump.  Over time, an Adam's apple will grow quite solid as in young people the cartilage is soft and flexible whilst in older people is turns more bony.

31

The thyroid cartilage is composed of two plates, called laminae that join in the front at an angle of 90 to 120 degrees. This is the protrusion that can be seen on the neck. The cartilage also provides vibrations of the vocal folds necessary for vocalization.

Variations In Male and Female Faces

32

Male and female faces have fundamental differences that are seen across the majority of people, many of these differences can be traced back to ancestral roots through evolution. Dr. Stephen Marquardt studied human beauty for years and through surveys studying perceptions of facial beauty and analysis of the human face in history found that beauty is related to phi. He created an archetypal beauty mask which uses the pentagon and decagon as it's foundation and embody phi in all the dimensions. The mask is the 'perfect' face and the more closely a face fits the mask the more beautiful a person is.

The phi mask is actually a a woman's mask, therefore the male image and mask is actually a variation of the female one. Developmentally, all human faces are essentially feminine and men's faces change and alter through multiple exposures to testosterone. However, they start out the same as a female (pre-pubescent males look extremely similar to pre-pubescent females and if dressed the same are often mistaken). Generally the female face is considered more attractive than the male face and this appears to be for the primary function of male attraction. Female attractiveness advertises health, the absence of disease and the ability to bear good children. This is important as in history males would be the sex to chose the mate, leaving the females to 'attract' the mate. It's because of this that females are attractive to other females, just not in a necessarily sexual way, because the face of a woman who fits the phi mask should be attractive to everyone - adults, children and infants.

The male variation of the mask is similar to the female mask but different in significant ways - 'characteristic' male variations.The archetypal male face is typically more protective, intimidating and sexually dissimilar than the female face.

33

Variations on repose frontal generally include:

1) Prominent supra-orbital (brow) ridges resulting in deeper set eyes

2) Flatter and narrower eyebrows

3) Slightly narrower eyes

4) Eyes less 'wide open' (eye lids slightly closed)

5) Slightly longer and/or wider nose

6) Slightly thinner lips (especially top lip)

7) Square/angled or larger jaw.

34

Variations on repose lateral generally include:

1) Prominent supra-orbital (brow) ridges resulting in deeper set eyes

2) Flatter eyebrows

3) Eyes less 'wide open' (eye lids slightly closed)

4) Slightly longer and/or wider nose

5) More obtuse nose-lip angle

6) Slightly thinner lips (especially top lip)

7) Square/angled or larger jaw.

35

36

All of these variations work together to make the male face appear more intimidating and protective than that of the female, the female face is more attractive and nurturing.

 Stephen Marquardt. Face variations by sex. [Online] Available from: http://www.beautyanalysis.com/beauty-and-you/face-variations/face-variations-sex/ [Accessed 12^th February 2015]

Other differences between men and women:
 - men generally have more body hair than women
 - Men's skin is thicker and oilier than women's skin; women's skin tends to be smoother
 - Women generally have smaller waists in relation their hips; that is, their waist to hip ratio is smaller than that of a men
 - A man's index finger (second digit) tends to be shorter than the ring finger (fourth digit), whereas women's index finger tends to be longer than the ring finger
 - Women tend to have lighter skin coloration than men, on average, by as much as 3% or 4%
 - Women tend to have a lower center gravity than men - that is, shorter legs and longer torsos relative to their height - as well as a larger hip section.
 - Women generally have a higher percentage of body fat than men
 - Women tend to have higher voices than men
 - Men tend to have a more prominent laryngeal prominence, or Adam's apple, than women
 - Women have enlarged, functional breasts
 - Men generally have greater muscle mass and physical strength
 - Men tend to have shoulders that are wider than their hips
 - Men's skeletal structure is generally heavier than women's
 - Men tend to collect fat deposits around the abdomen and waist (apple shape), whereas women tend to have greater fat deposits around the buttocks, thighs and hips (pear shaped)

Debreceni, T (2013) Special Makeup Effects for stage and screen. 2^nd edition. Abingdon. Focal Press (pg. 74-5)

Facial Hair Tecniques

 From my research into the variations between males and females I know that males grow facial hair and women don't so this is an important step in gender transformation. There are many techniques for adding facial hair that do not involve knotting. As I'm doing gender transformations I would like to try some of these. The time constraints of the project mean I don't have the time to knot a full beard which if this was a full makeup on a film etc. I would consider having done as a realistic way to add a beard. However I would like to try techniques to add facial hair. Laying hair directly onto the face has advantages in that it's difficult to tell it's fake as there are no edges to conceal and it's much quicker and can be changed easily.

41

42

This picture shows the method for laying on hair:

1) Apply spirit gum under the chin in the desired shape for the beard
2) Take the hair from the hackle - hair needs to be mixed in colour or it will look flat and unrealistic.
3) Spread the hair onto the required area and tap the ends of the hair so they adhere to the gum. Cut the hair to the desired length.
4) Start with the darker colour underneath and get lighter as move towards mouth
5) When a large area has been covered, use a towel to press the hair firmly to secure the hair and get rid of any extra gum
6) Thin the hair out at the top and the side of the jaw
7) When finished use a large-toothed comb to comb gently through the hair
8) Cut the hair into the required shape.

This is an example of laying on hair which is a technique I could use for gender transformation if I wanted a full beard and didn't have the time to not it. It works well as lace can't be seen but is time consuming to actually apply which could be an issue.

43

44

These pictures show the method for applying stubble. You can make stubble with just makeup (ie. greasepaint) which works from afar but doesn't look so realistic close up.

1) Spread the wax thinly over the face
2) Place a small piece of hair lace on the wax and press it on
3) Start at the side of the face. Dip a soft powder brush into finely chopped human hair. Stipple the brush onto the hair lace.
4) Pull the lace off carefully, leaving the hairs attached to the wax and making them stick on end.
5) Move round the face section by section. Take down the neck to the Adam's apple.

45

 Experimentation

On my chin I experimented with using brown and black greasepaint on a stipple sponge for a stubble effect. I liked the technique and from afar it looks effective. It was also extremely quick and easy. Close up it's more obvious it's makeup.

On the middle section I tried the applying stubble technique with spirit gum. This worked well but remained very sticky for a while and made the lace difficult to work with.

On the far section I experimented with the stubble technique using pros-aide. I much preferred this to spirit gum as it dried matte not shiny, didn't remain sticky and more hair stuck onto the section.

 All three techniques were useful but my favourite was using pros-aide as I think it looks the most realistic and was the easiest to work with. For a much quicker, simple application I would use the greasepaint technique but for a more in depth girl to boy transformation I will use the pros-aide version of applying stubble. All together I was happy with my experimentation as it helped me decide on stubble techniques for my different gender transformations.

If a gender transformation makeup was to be done as a full makeup it is possible that knotting hair would be used to make a piece like a beard or mustache. In this case I would use human hair and a single hair knotting technique to create the piece. I did a small example of this in a square of knotting to experiment with how natural lace can look on the face and get an idea of the techniques that would be used in a full makeup.

I was happy with how the knotting went on this small section, I used a single knotting technique and synthetic hair I had left over (for a full beard it would be better to use human hair) The piece stuck well at the bottom but became slightly unstcuck at the top which is why the lace can be see. To change this I would cut the lace closer to the hair and use mastix as a glue. However this was very helpful in seeing how natural a lace beard could look on a gender transformation makeup and if I was to do a full girl to boy makeup I would definitely consider knotting a full beard as I think it could be very effective and natural looking.