This is the presentation I made of my initial ideas and workings for this project. I chose to study feminism and women's representation as it's a topic which greatly interests me outside of my studies and one which has a huge repercussions on the media making it applicable to makeup studies.
Following the seminars we had where I presented these ideas, my makeup ideas have altered slightly. Instead of focusing my 3 makeups on the three waves of feminism I will focus all my makeups into the third category post-modernist feminism as this will give me more room to to explore and experiment with ideas rather than sticking to three set makeups. I will just explore gender transformation as the theory of gender is the main focus of post-modernist feminism and this will hopefully give me more scope in my makeups. I would like to look at:
- drag makeup
- natural boy to girl transformation
- stubble and beards
- prosthetics woman to man (adams apple, brow piece etc)
- bald caps and eyebrows
- androgynous / non-gendered makeup
- mixed gender
Monday, 9 February 2004
Friday, 31 January 2003
Equality In Performance
Gender, Race, Age
- In the 19th and early 12th century it was acceptable to put on black makeup to sing, dance and perform in music halls. These performers were known as minstrels.
- Vesta Tilley would dress and act as a man to enable her to perform her comedy and singing act in the Edwardian era.
- All performers on the stage in this time were white and British - travel was very expensive in this time so people wouldn't normally travel to other countries to perform.
- In the USA racial segregation as enforced. Jazz clubs used black artists to perform but they were not allowed to used the same entrance or facilities as their white colleges.
- The Stanford White Murder was caused by an early actress in the silent film ( a fight between two jealous men) it confirmed the idea that an actress wasn't the sort of job a girl should do. The roles women did have in films strongly enforced the gender roles.
- The Golden Age of Hollywood was between 1930-1960. during this period there were very few roles for black actors, other than playing servants. Women were mostly wives and girlfriends playing very vulnerable roles and were rarely the lead in the films. Characters with physical activities were usually played by able bodied actors.
- Loretta Young won best actress in 1948 for her role in a rom-com where she played a servant that became a figure in politics. However the films comedy came not from the dialogue but from the fact a servant girl was attempting to get into politics.
- Soon the television became a popular feature in many British people's homes. In 1960 Nan Winton tried out as a newsreader but was soon axed. She later complained about her treatment and said there was obvious discrimination.
- The USA didn't have its first female newsreader until 1976
- In the 1960s and 70s most programmes used sexist and racist humor as normal. eg. mother in law jokes, Irish jokes etc.
- There has also been discrimination in the fashion and editorial sphere.
- A lot of major fashion houses didn't or didn't have many black/non-Caucasian models on the runway for a long time and this can still be a problem in the present day.
- Niomi Campbell was the first black model to appear on the cover of British Vouge - this wasn't until 1987
- The size 0 debate still looms in the present day as the size isn't a representation of real women's sizes - are women discriminated against in society because of the very skinny models.
- There aren't many portrayals of larger women in films unless they are in lesser, comedy roles.
- Even in commercials there are very few companies that use black models, Even less use Asian models and there are non with disabilities.
- Products that help with a problem are usually not advertised with people who suffer from that problem
- In Hollywood today women have a lot more roles and often have the lead part in a film. People of different ethnic origins now appear more regularly.
- However, men can play a romantic lead in a film until their quite old, women however do not have the same opportunity and there seems to be a shelf life on women's acting career in main roles. The roles that are available for older women are often played by a small handful of women.
- Characters with disabilities are now more often played by actors with disabilities
- Still too often the villain in a film is black and the hero is white, women are housewives or secretaries, men are CEO's or bosses, homeless people are criminals, gay men are camp and effeminate.
- In the 19th and early 12th century it was acceptable to put on black makeup to sing, dance and perform in music halls. These performers were known as minstrels.
- Vesta Tilley would dress and act as a man to enable her to perform her comedy and singing act in the Edwardian era.
- All performers on the stage in this time were white and British - travel was very expensive in this time so people wouldn't normally travel to other countries to perform.
- In the USA racial segregation as enforced. Jazz clubs used black artists to perform but they were not allowed to used the same entrance or facilities as their white colleges.
- The Stanford White Murder was caused by an early actress in the silent film ( a fight between two jealous men) it confirmed the idea that an actress wasn't the sort of job a girl should do. The roles women did have in films strongly enforced the gender roles.
- The Golden Age of Hollywood was between 1930-1960. during this period there were very few roles for black actors, other than playing servants. Women were mostly wives and girlfriends playing very vulnerable roles and were rarely the lead in the films. Characters with physical activities were usually played by able bodied actors.
- Loretta Young won best actress in 1948 for her role in a rom-com where she played a servant that became a figure in politics. However the films comedy came not from the dialogue but from the fact a servant girl was attempting to get into politics.
- Soon the television became a popular feature in many British people's homes. In 1960 Nan Winton tried out as a newsreader but was soon axed. She later complained about her treatment and said there was obvious discrimination.
- The USA didn't have its first female newsreader until 1976
- In the 1960s and 70s most programmes used sexist and racist humor as normal. eg. mother in law jokes, Irish jokes etc.
- There has also been discrimination in the fashion and editorial sphere.
- A lot of major fashion houses didn't or didn't have many black/non-Caucasian models on the runway for a long time and this can still be a problem in the present day.
- Niomi Campbell was the first black model to appear on the cover of British Vouge - this wasn't until 1987
- The size 0 debate still looms in the present day as the size isn't a representation of real women's sizes - are women discriminated against in society because of the very skinny models.
- There aren't many portrayals of larger women in films unless they are in lesser, comedy roles.
- Even in commercials there are very few companies that use black models, Even less use Asian models and there are non with disabilities.
- Products that help with a problem are usually not advertised with people who suffer from that problem
- In Hollywood today women have a lot more roles and often have the lead part in a film. People of different ethnic origins now appear more regularly.
- However, men can play a romantic lead in a film until their quite old, women however do not have the same opportunity and there seems to be a shelf life on women's acting career in main roles. The roles that are available for older women are often played by a small handful of women.
- Characters with disabilities are now more often played by actors with disabilities
- Still too often the villain in a film is black and the hero is white, women are housewives or secretaries, men are CEO's or bosses, homeless people are criminals, gay men are camp and effeminate.
Saturday, 9 February 2002
Processing Silicone Prosthetics (using fiberglass) Part 2
Once the fibreglassing had set overnight it needed to be separated. Once this was done holes then needed to be drilled in so the mold and core could lock together to processes prosthetics. We used 6mm screws.
Next we used a vibrasaw to take off the overhanging edges of the fiberglass so the edge was where the bleeding edges were and it was more manageable and near. We then filed this down further with sandpaper to make sure it was smooth.
I was happy with how all these processes went however it was at this moment I realised that my original fibreglassing was too thin. This meant be mold wasn't really strong enough and a lot m ore delicate than it should be. It still worked as a mold but next time I need to do another layer of fibreglass to make sure my mold is stronger and more durable.
Next I put three layers of cap plastic into the mold as the base of the silicone prosthetic. I then made a 25% softened mixture of silicone (60g A + 60g B + 30g C) as a forehead is relatively hard but still has the normal softness of skin and poured this into my mold. I then screwed the two halves of the mold together and bolted it shut tightly to wait whilst it cured. Once opened I painted two more layers of cap plastic over the back.
Next time I will use a little more silicone as one area of the flashing didn't get filled properly and barely any silicone got squeezed out whilst the molds were shutting but apart from this I was very happy with how the piece had turned out.
One mistake I had made during this process has not using a mold release (vaseline) on the mold before adding the cap plastic. Although fibreglass isn't porous like plaster this still meant the silicone clung to it, causing a lot of my cap plastic to be left in the piece, this also meant I had a rip at the base of the piece.. Apart from this though I was very happy with how this piece turned out. The edges are neat and usable, the texture has transferred well to silicone and the piece felt the right level of softness. Next time I need to remember to vaseline the piece and I think it will work a lot better. Overall I was very happy with how the fibreglass mold worked.
Next we used a vibrasaw to take off the overhanging edges of the fiberglass so the edge was where the bleeding edges were and it was more manageable and near. We then filed this down further with sandpaper to make sure it was smooth.
I was happy with how all these processes went however it was at this moment I realised that my original fibreglassing was too thin. This meant be mold wasn't really strong enough and a lot m ore delicate than it should be. It still worked as a mold but next time I need to do another layer of fibreglass to make sure my mold is stronger and more durable.
Next I put three layers of cap plastic into the mold as the base of the silicone prosthetic. I then made a 25% softened mixture of silicone (60g A + 60g B + 30g C) as a forehead is relatively hard but still has the normal softness of skin and poured this into my mold. I then screwed the two halves of the mold together and bolted it shut tightly to wait whilst it cured. Once opened I painted two more layers of cap plastic over the back.
Next time I will use a little more silicone as one area of the flashing didn't get filled properly and barely any silicone got squeezed out whilst the molds were shutting but apart from this I was very happy with how the piece had turned out.
One mistake I had made during this process has not using a mold release (vaseline) on the mold before adding the cap plastic. Although fibreglass isn't porous like plaster this still meant the silicone clung to it, causing a lot of my cap plastic to be left in the piece, this also meant I had a rip at the base of the piece.. Apart from this though I was very happy with how this piece turned out. The edges are neat and usable, the texture has transferred well to silicone and the piece felt the right level of softness. Next time I need to remember to vaseline the piece and I think it will work a lot better. Overall I was very happy with how the fibreglass mold worked.
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