Alien - Film Viewing

5

We viewed the 1979 film Alien in class. Again I viewed this film through the light of gender identities as this is what I will be focusing around for my project.

- Woman is asking to leave where they are exploring, men are persuading and making the decision to go on. Stereotypical gender roles of women as passive and men as aggressive and the decision makers.

- The least intelligent character is the first to die. Role of  'stupid' man to show the group what they're up against.

- Two clear women in film. One woman panicking and one woman being strong and giving instructions. Not much light and shade.

- Women viewed as sentimental when she goes back for the cat. Risks life for it - women are motherly and maternal and can't leave something helpless. Viewed as senseless and idiotic in the film.

- The man jumps infront of the woman to save her so he dies first - volunteer to die = brave

- The woman is clearly strong and capable against the alien but when she gets attacked by a man then other men have to save her.

 - She is the character that said the first man infected by the alien needed to be quarantined but no-one listened as she wasn't being compassionate and this was viewed as bad (especially as she is a woman) By then end we know that her decision would have been right all along. but it's not admitted by anyone.

- After she has first escaped she takes her clothes off which could be seen as belittling achievement as we see her sexually as a character after all she's done. When she first takled the alien she tied her hair up - a symbol of hiding her femininity to take on the masculine role of fighting. Once that's done we need to remember she's a woman so we see her in few clothes. Mirrors societies view that women can't just be clever/brave  without using their body as a tool. There is no need for her to be in her underwear as it doesn't add anything to storyline.

- When she needs to be empowered and take on a males role again she is in a spacesuit so her gender identity is more masculine again.

 - Afterwards she is back in skimpy clothing to reinforce her gender role - even though she's done something brave and strong to be a comfortable gender role as a woman she must then be seen as back in the place of nurturing the cat and being a 'woman'

Processing Silicone Prosthetics (using fiberglass) Part 1

 - Fiberglass is a strong lightweight material and is used for many products.

 - It is not as strong and stiff as carbon fiber but it's less brittle.

Health and Safety:

- Will irritate eyes, skin and respiratory system
- Potential dysphea, sore throat, hoarseness and coughing
- Safe to manufacture but have to wear protective clothing
- Mouth protection needs to filter against organic vapor (respirator)
- Hand protection (vinyl or nitrite gloves)
- Eye protection (any sort of goggles)
- Protective Clothing (baggy clothes so that it's away from skin if spills or overalls)

Materials:

- glass matting
- gel coat resin
- lay-up resin
- fine surface tissue
- catalyst (benzoyl peroxide)

Gel Coat = smooth, hard polyester surface coating of fiberglass stucture

Lay-up Resin = Synthetic Resin that undergoes polymerization during curing. Excellent adhesive, high strength, good chemical resistance.

Catalyst = methyl, ethyl, ketone peroxide

Glossary of terms:

- Core = thing sculpting onto (positive portion of a multipiece mold)
- Mould = the thing on top of the sculpt
- Cast = thing that comes out
- Flashing = excess material
- Touchdown = mould touching core
- Key = indentation to help alignment of mould
- Cutting edge = part of the mold that touches and glues thin edge
- Undercut = sculpting that creates a locking state between mould and core

Fiberglass:

- Gel coat is the first layer that goes on
- Laminating resin is a lot thinner and runnier than gel
- Chippings = little bits of fiberglass

- Vale = thin and papery fiberglass

- Catalyst is generally 2% of total volume (but can be different depending on atmosphere conditions) same for gel coat and laminating resin.

- Put mold release over plastic areas of core

- Talc the surface of the sculpt (prevents resin from building up)

- Add 2% of catalyst to gel coat layer (should change colour)

- With chip brush put an even layer of gel coat over entire sculpt and flashing and down onto core.

- Let almost cure (firm but tacky) usually takes 20-30 minutes (depends on room temperature

- Put 2% of catalyst in laminating resin

- Mix some resin with chipping and fill any deep holes that will be hard to fiberglass ( tight corners, flashing etc.)

- Wet up fiberglass chunks with resin.

- Lay over the sculpt, overlapping the pieces

- Use resin on the brush to put on top of fiberglass (knocking out airbubbles)

- Do 2 layers of fiberglass and a third round the edge for strength to pull apart.

- Lay the veil over the top and press down with resin

- Leave for a few hours to set and harden (preferably overnight)

Foam Latex (Part 1)

- In 100g of foam latex you've got 68g of latex - you need this and upwards to be good

- a 300g batch is essentially 300g plus all the other components

- the foaming agent is essentially soap

- You need 20% foaming agent to latex (eg. 100g latex = 20g foaming agent)

- The curing agent contains sulfur which gives the foam it's memory and sponginess

- Need 10% of curing agent to latex (eg. 100g latex = 10g curing agent)

- The gelling agent makes the foam set (so it get's put in at the end). There is no set percentage - depends on the temperature, humidity of area. Usually around 10% but in England more like 14%. In winter use more gel

- Once the foam is set it can be put in the oven on a different day - process doesn't need to happen all at once.

- First step is putting in mold release as otherwise piece won't come out. Only need mold release with porous materials (plaster) not non-porous materials (fiberglass)

- Advisable to write down every thing about environment each time make roam latex (amounts, temperature etc.) to know how to keep improving.

- You can add pigments to latex mix to pre-colour it but latex is opaque so can't work in colour layers like you can with silicone

- Can use acylic paint as a pigment, food colouring etc. Avoid colouring with copper in. Oil paints will ruin foam.

- To paint on top of latex you need pax paint ( oil paint, pros-aide), greasepaint or airbrush.

- Foam is extremely light compared to silicone.

- You can reinforce foam for a suit with netting/fabric (lycra, tight material) because foam grabs onto material well. You can then glue these materials onto core then put the latex on top.

- Oven needs to be hot before beginning

- Need bleeding holes in the mold so air can escape when material is being injected and you don't get air bubbles or trapped moisture. It also gives a visual reference to know how filled the mold is.

- 85/90 degree ovem for the foam

To run a foam mix:

- Put lines/markers on the mold so you know which way to fit it together

- Need a mixer, a timer and a thermometer

- Add mold release inside and outside mold

- 200g latex = 40g foaming agent

- Add this straight into the mix

- 20g curing agent

- Add into mix

- Full spin for 2-3 mins till 2-3x original size

- Slower speed to refine it for 8 mins

- Add 28g of gelling agent and whisk for another 30 seconds

- Paint thin layer into negative to catch all the detail

- Pour rest of mixture in and press two halves together

- For injection fill syringe with mixture and push into mold, waiting until overflow comes out. Plug the overflow holes.

- Can also be painted into flat plate molds.

- Can take 10 mins to 1/2 hour to set.

- Put into oven.

Flat Mold Piece 

Closed mold piece

Injection filled piece